The Laughing Wolf

There is almost no way to do the life of any saint justice. There are often struggles, sometimes hidden; there is sorrow; but, above all there is Faith. Some saints overcome sinful lives to become saints. Others seem destined to that path from birth. St. Seraphim of Sofia is one of the latter, and I am very glad I got to know him a bit on this pilgrimage.

St. Seraphim was born December 1, 1881 in Ryazin, Russia as Nikolai Borisovitch Sobolev. He was the last child born to his mother, who had lost many of her children quite early in childhood. The story of his sister, Vera, is also a part of his story, and I will recommend this article and this article for learning more about him. There is also a book I will recommend if anyone is interested in learning more.

The tales of his studies and how he became a monk then priest are one of the things that drew me to him. Like many students, he had his challenges in school, but was guided such that he not only passed, but became known for his scholarship. I will note that he is still quite often invoked by students, many of whom credit him with their success.

It is also interesting how he became Seraphim. When he was to be tonsured, his name was originally going to be something else. But that day, the person performing the tonsure was moved to name him Seraphim after St. Seraphim of Sarov. Given that Saint Seraphim of Sofia had a special place in his heart for St. Seraphim of Sofia, it filled him with great joy and an even stronger sense of purpose.

He was a teacher at all times, but a teacher of students more than once. His path led him to being ordained a Bishop, and in August 1921 he was sent to Bulgaria after a short stint in Constantinople. His work in Bulgaria was ceaseless, and with his aesthetic practices led to contracting tuberculosis. It is worth noting that until the end he rented the most humble of accommodations and was noted for giving away clothing and possessions to those in need.

Near death in February 1950, he is said to have told his spiritual children that “If I find boldness before the Lord, I will not leave you.” I can only say that it appears he did and he has not left his flock. The number of intercessions and miracles attributed to him is considerable, and my own time with him powerful.

Again, keep in mind we do not pray to our saints, but we ask them to intercede for us with God, and the miracles that accompany them are of God through the intercessions of the saint. An important point worth driving home relentlessly and repeatedly.

This is far too short to do him justice, but I hope it may lead you to learn more about him. It is well worth your time.

If you would like to help me with this trip, seminary courses, and more, feel free to hit the fundraiser at A New Life on GiveSendGo, use the options in the Tip Jar in the upper right, or drop me a line to discuss other methods. I’ve added Cash App ($CliffPow7) and Venmo (@Clifford-Powers-5). There is also the Amazon Wish List in the Bard’s Jar. Getting hit by lightning is not fun! It is thanks to your gifts and prayers that I am still going. Thank you.

I’ve put this one off for several reasons, mostly to do with all the amazing things that happened there. Of the three monasteries I visited on Mount Athos, this was the most profound experience. Extremely positive, but it has given me a LOT to think about and work through. Some of the things I experienced I still can’t put into words, some is not for public consumption, and some I will share a bit of with you.

As I mentioned earlier, I didn’t get nearly as many pictures here as I did of the others, primarily because so much was happening. Have you ever walked into a place and just instinctively known that this was a place things would happen? If so, that’s pretty much what I felt. I also felt oddly at home, safe isn’t quite the right word, but it’s close enough for now.

Vatopedi was founded in the 10th century, and has an extremely rich history. This gives a little bit of it, and it is well worth reading more. There are several miraculous icons and some awe-inspiring relics (and, yes, I was given the opportunity to venerate almost all of them). I want to avoid some of what Sarah A. Hoyt calls the “woo woo” but do need to share this. Not long after we arrived, I went to look around and do some prayers. Along the way, I chanced on the icon seen below, and then went up some stairs to a chapel above the main church where I venerated an icon you could feel the power rolling off. I spent twenty or so minutes in there praying for various people and things. I did not know the story of that icon at the time, but learned it later. The story of that icon is here, and I hope I never see that look on the Lord’s face directed at me. The icon below was put where the miraculous icon formerly resided.

I’m going to skip some of the amazing things that happened after that, but will share a small bit. I had wanted to partake of the Eucharist while there, and as such wanted to do confession. It worked out that to do so, I got up at 0300 and joined the monks as they entered the church to start morning prayers. I followed their lead, and was told that one of the monks would take me to confession in a bit.

This did happen, and what I will share is that the priest knew more about me than I had shared with him. It was one of the best confessions I’ve had in any church with no disappointment, guilting, and such that can happen (and has happened with both Catholic and at least one Orthodox priest). Instead, it was thorough, supportive, encouraging, and remarkably positive. My regular confessor is good, but this priest gave a master-class on how to do a good confession. Yes, I made mental notes. I also hope he is right on a couple of things he told me.

Afterwards, I went back to the church and re-joined the morning prayers. I wish there was some way to share what it was like as the sun came up and light began to fill the huge church dimly lit with candles and lamps. The beauty of it is not something you can easily catch with a camera, as rays from the rising sun begin to bounce off the brass and gold and stream down upon those within filling the church with a golden glow.

At a certain point, the crowd being so large, we broke up into groups and went to smaller churches located around the monastery. There, we finished the service and partook of the Eucharist. Then, we went to breakfast. Sadly, not long after that, it was time to leave. If I could go back right now, I would. I do hope that I can go back soon. More on this in a future post, as I have invitations to return to two monasteries for more extended stays.

If you would like to help me with this trip, seminary courses, and more, feel free to hit the fundraiser at A New Life on GiveSendGo, use the options in the Tip Jar in the upper right, or drop me a line to discuss other methods. I’ve added Cash App ($CliffPow7) and Venmo (@Clifford-Powers-5). There is also the Amazon Wish List in the Bard’s Jar. Getting hit by lightning is not fun! It is thanks to your gifts and prayers that I am still going. Thank you.

The Pavlou Monastery was a great place to end my time on Mount Athos. After all that went on at Vatopedi monastery (some of which I will share soon), I needed some quiet time for thought and contemplation. Pavlou was the perfect location for such.

It is not far from the base of Mount Athos, and my hat’s off to those who climb that snow-capped mountain. I actually felt very sorry for the group(s) doing so that day, for reasons that will be clear in a moment. It is up the side of the “hill” and I was glad for the ride up to the monastery from the port. Lots of work going on there to secure things and deal with occasional floods coming down the mountain.

The views were spectacular, and our room had a good view of the courtyard. The church was, of course, in the center, but behind it was a narrow way with a cross, some conveniently placed benches, and even a holy spring nearby which made for a perfect spot to sit, think, and pray. I needed that time by myself more than I can say, or even that I realized at first. It would have been nice to wander around more, but I had a LOT to think about that took priority over being a tourist.

I took the time while I could, and enjoyed the weather while I could, as I could feel the storms coming. Since I was hit by the lightning, if I pay attention I can get a pretty good idea of if storms are coming and even if there will be lightning (and sometimes where). Not one hundred percent, but better than average. I could feel the weather changing, so made the best use I could of the great weather while I could.

I was able to play tourist to a limited extent, and it is almost amusing to realize that I got more photos at my “bookend” monasteries than I did at Vatopedi. Then again, I still tend to lose myself a bit in the photography which helped give me time to process things. So, I would sit, think, and pray; then go do a bit of photography; and, then lather, rinse, and repeat. I needed that time.

Soon it was time for the evening services and then dinner. Monastic services are a little different (if you want I can one day discuss the two periods where monastic and cathedral rites were joined together in synthesis) and I’ve come to enjoy them. Even when long, they tend to move along as monks have things to do. Though they move a bit faster than cathedral rites, you can quickly lose yourself into the service. Add in amazing architecture and art, and you truly do have a feast for the senses.

There was a group of American pilgrims there that I was introduced to after service. It was a pleasure to meet them, and the priest leading them was a graduate of the seminary where I took my course this spring. I really enjoyed meeting him and came to appreciate his leadership as we were leaving.

After dinner, we were given a chance to learn about some of the icons and relics there, and to venerate them. While they have a portion of the Gifts of the Magi, for me there was one icon that particularly caught my attention. The icon was the Icon of the Virgin Mary Kathreptis. During the years of iconoclasm, this icon was protected by the Empress Theodora in her private chamber hidden behind a mirror. There are scorch marks on it hinting that it’s survival from the pagan fires of iconoclasm was close at some point. It is also extremely unique and if you are interested in iconography at all I would highly recommend reading up on it.

That night it did indeed storm, and the storm continued into the next morning. I donned the poncho my Godmother (Matushka) had given me to bring but as we were to leave to go back down to the port, the rain stopped. We got down to the port, and when the boat came we all got onboard despite objections from some that we should wait for the boat to come back since it was still on the outbound portion of its journey. The American priest overrode that bit of idiocy and I cheerfully went along with him as I had no desire to be out for an hour or so in rain and possibly lightning. I will have to share some video from that ride one day here soon, so glad we did it.

There is more to come. I will particularly ask you to hit the tip jar today if you can, as I am looking at taking one or more courses at the seminary this fall. If I take just one, looking at needing about $7k, and if two it will be another $4k on top of that. Would appreciate the help very much. Thank you for reading, commenting, and liking things. It is all very much appreciated!

If you would like to help me with this trip, seminary courses, and more, feel free to hit the fundraiser at A New Life on GiveSendGo, use the options in the Tip Jar in the upper right, or drop me a line to discuss other methods. I’ve added Cash App ($CliffPow7) and Venmo (@Clifford-Powers-5). There is also the Amazon Wish List in the Bard’s Jar. Getting hit by lightning is not fun! It is thanks to your gifts and prayers that I am still going. Thank you.

First, an apology to you the readers. I had planned to get a post up yesterday, but didn’t make it. The breakfast I had on Wednesday with a friend, who has been a bit under the weather as it were, ran delightfully into the afternoon. It was so good to catch up with them, laugh, share some memories, and just live. Had to run an unexpected errand afterwards which took up the rest of the day. Yesterday morning I had coffee with two dear friends and then had errands to run before the storms hit last night. Had breakfast this morning with a friend and former co-worker, and am now catching up here.

I also owe an apology to my “bookend” monasteries on Mount Athos. I sometimes glitch on their names. While each visit on Mount Athos was unique and even wonderful, so much happened at Vatopedi that it tends to eclipse everything else which is not fair to the other two. The first “bookend” is Karakallou Monastery and in some respects it was the perfect way to “break in” to the routine of life on Mount Athos.

The monastery dates back to the 11th century, and is up a ways from it’s “port.” Something to keep in mind about the monasteries on Mount Athos is that each has (or had) it’s own port down on the coast. In this case, the port is about a mile down the hill from the monastery proper. The monasteries, be they on Mount Athos or elsewhere, strive to be as self-sufficient as possible. A lot of people seem to have the idea that monks are sitting in their cell (room) all day praying, and that’s just not the case. There are often animals for which to care; crops to tend, grapes to pick and wine to make, etc. It is not a sedentary life.

In the case of Karakallou, I would add to that list of chores expanding agricultural activities. While there, work was underway to expand grape and crop growing areas, and to repair and optimize such areas and roads. That was in addition to all the normal work of running a farm. One area next to the monastery had hundreds of onions planted, and we found out why later.

Karakallu is probably best known for the icon of Saints Peter and Paul (take it as a given that most icons I mention here are miraculous); but, it also houses relics of the True Cross and a number of saints. For most visitors, these will be brought out during a special time after supper to learn about them and have the chance to venerate them.

I mentioned earlier the onions being grown and at dinner that night we found out why so many are being grown. Dinner was a lentil stew, and it was probably the best such I’ve ever had. I can’t cook lentils all that well, but the monks clearly could. Next to each bowl was a green onion with a small bulb at the end, peeled and with the roots cut off. One ate lentils, took a bite of the onion, and it was delicious.

The next morning, we walked about a mile downhill to the old port, and the boat that services those ports came in and picked us up. We did have one small bit of excitement when a wild pig and piglets ran across the trail in front of us. Once we were sure all the piglets were across and they and mom were gone, we continued on.

Karacallou was a good place to shed the world and enjoy some quiet contemplation and prayer. That shift stood me in good stead for my visit to Vatopedi.

We may bounce around a bit over the next couple of weeks, as I am not going to be posting in the order things happened. Instead, I’m going to be trying to pick up the stories I have not yet told and or am still trying to process.

The Monastery of the Theotokos Kallipetra falls into both categories. My friend (and Sub-Deacon) Randy had — for him — strongly recommended I go there. It’s outside Veria (another topic/site we will be exploring some more) and it is, in fact, a work in progress. The monks there were murdered back 1908 and it was abandoned for decades. Locals still snuck down to the site to lite candles and pray, and there is (I’m told) still a foot trail from a nearby village. Local legends talk of hearing monks chanting in the church there while it was deserted.

A group of monks returned and are working to restore the site and are doing some amazing work. The locals, monks, and pilgrims even raised funds to pave the road to the monastery. Read the first picture for more details.

I enjoyed meeting the monks, especially the Abbot Father Palamas. He was the first priest I met on this trip who seemed to know more about me that I had shared. Then again, I had been told that might be the case as I am not the first to experience that. During our talk, he invited me to come back for a longer stay — and I would very much like to do that. I would also like to help as much as I can with the work they are doing.

Father Palamas was kind enough to let me stay for evening services and to enter the under-construction/restoration church, where I had the opportunity — among several — to venerate a relic of the Apostle Paul. My visit there was powerful and moving in several ways, and as I said above, I would love to go back for a longer visit as soon as I can.

If you would like to help me with this trip, seminary courses, and more, feel free to hit the fundraiser at A New Life on GiveSendGo, use the options in the Tip Jar in the upper right, or drop me a line to discuss other methods. I’ve added Cash App ($CliffPow7) and Venmo (@Clifford-Powers-5). There is also the Amazon Wish List in the Bard’s Jar. Getting hit by lightning is not fun! It is thanks to your gifts and prayers that I am still going. Thank you.

Early in the pilgrimage, possibly even during planning, someone had suggested that I attend the Pentecost service at the cathedral. As that time drew closer, I felt a strong push to be there as well. So, I did indeed attend the service at the cathedral and I’m glad I did. I miss my regular church already; but, I have to admit that attending a service officiated by our Patriarch, Daniil, was quite something.

The entrance had all the pomp and ceremony one would expect. The exit was distinctly him, in that it was low-key, quiet, and warm before he walked back to his official residence.

I didn’t get pictures at the start, as the entrance was the start of the service and that had my full attention. I did get a few shots right near the end of the liturgy and the start of the Kneeling Vespers. I also grabbed a couple when he quietly walked through the crowd giving blessings and greetings. Yes, I did get a blessing from him. No, I didn’t try to take a selfie (some did) as that’s just not my thing.

I did take a couple of photos of the leaves and small branches being tossed from the top of the cathedral. The Patriarch had tossed some out to the crowd, and the matrons attending went after them like the front line of the old Green Bay Pachaderms and I chose not to get into that melee. Instead, I managed to catch one of the falling leaves in my hat, and have it tucked into the band. At least until I have to go to the airport as CBP is death on ag products, dirt, etc. being brought back into the U.S.

After the service, I sat for a few minutes watching the kids expo taking place in the square around the cathedral. It was fun, and interesting as different parts of the military were there helping kids to climb rock walls, handle weapons, and other cool and fun things. Then, I walked about a mile to have lunch at what has become my favorite traditional Bulgarian cuisine place. I had an appetizer that was a full meal for me, along with a really nice red ale.

More soon I hope. Today looks to be administrative rather than exploratory. Among other things, it appears I did pass my seminary class but have no idea of my final grade. Going to see what I can find out, along with a number of other things that need to be dealt with.

If you would like to help me with this trip, seminary courses, and more, feel free to hit the fundraiser at A New Life on GiveSendGo, use the options in the Tip Jar in the upper right, or drop me a line to discuss other methods. I’ve added Cash App ($CliffPow7) and Venmo (@Clifford-Powers-5). There is also the Amazon Wish List in the Bard’s Jar. Getting hit by lightning is not fun! It is thanks to your gifts and prayers that I am still going. Thank you.

Today is the Bulgarian version of “Day of the Dead.” Families and friends go to visit the graves of loved ones in repose. They talk with them, pray for them, and they leave some food. Thing is, the food has to include cherries. It can, in fact, just be some fresh cherries; but, cherries are essential.

My neighbors here invited me over this morning to share some cherry cake (she is quite the cook I’m learning) she had made, as part of the day is also sharing food with family and friends who are still living. Our little repast ended up including a feral kitten as a guest, who’s mother brought her surviving male kitten to their garden. They have been feeding both of them, him with a syringe of milk that he eagerly takes down as often as he can. In fact, he’s known for coming over, climbing up her pants and into her lap, and asking to be fed. Momma seems quite glad for the help.

I start packing and cleaning tomorrow after church. Current plans are to leave the apartment early next week, spend the night at a hotel near the airport as I have to be there at 0600 for my first flight of the day. That’s going to be a long day I suspect. Feel free to hit the tip jar as I’m shipping some things back and that looks to be more than I care for. That said, it beats an overweight luggage fee. More soon.

If you would like to help me with this trip, seminary courses, and more, feel free to hit the fundraiser at A New Life on GiveSendGo, use the options in the Tip Jar in the upper right, or drop me a line to discuss other methods. I’ve added Cash App ($CliffPow7) and Venmo (@Clifford-Powers-5). There is also the Amazon Wish List in the Bard’s Jar. Getting hit by lightning is not fun! It is thanks to your gifts and prayers that I am still going. Thank you.